John

John is co-owner of Huron Tours and Travel.

Chickie Wah Wah – a great non-smoking bar, great food, great shows, clean, atmospheric and fun.

2828 Canal Street • New Orleans, LA • 504.304.4714

Just toward the lake from Broad at Canal, this little bar has been quietly playing host to some of New Orleans’ most active songwriters. I’m talking about Paul Sanchez, Alex McMurray, John Cleary to name a few.

Alex McMurray and Bill Malchow at Chickie Wah Wah

Alex McMurray and Bill Malchow at Chickie Wah Wah

Paul Sanchez has recently adopted the work of Dan Baum’s book Nine Lives: Mystery, Magic, Death, and Life in New Orleans into a musical. Paul has a fantastic blog here which details the process, thoughts, feelings, efforts and involvement of himself and the host of musicians who appear on the album. That blog is really worth a read. And, after reading it you’ll be amazed you can then go see Paul play a set with Alex McMurray and sit two feet away from them at Chickie Wah Wah for the better part of two hours, with maybe 30 people in the audience, for the $8 cover charge.

I’ve got a blog post here with info on another opportunity to catch Alex on a weekly basis (also has link to his web page etc).

If you are interested in the Nine Lives Adaptation, I recommend the CD over the MP3 download – the liner notes are imporant to filling out / adding meaning to the songs.
Dan Baum’s book:

What else about Chickie Wah Wah? It’s on the Canal Street Car line – so if you’re staying in the CBD or French Quarter, it is easy to get to. Also would be about a $7 cab ride from those areas. There is plenty of street parking. It is the cleanest bar you will ever spend time in while in New Orleans – though not a super bright antiseptic clean. It’s a wonderfully decorated (eclectic) bar, with a nice selection of wine and beer (both bottled and draft). An important rarity for the slightly older crowd in New Orleans – the shows start on time. No waiting around until midnight for the first note to be struck. Also totally awesome – no smoking inside.

Also nice – Taceaux Loceaux has started operating out of Chickie Wah Wah’s kitchen. The link up there is to a Gambit Magazine review on them, and this is a link to their twitter page. They make excellent tacos – I’ve had both the pork and beef tacos and man are they good! They also operate a couple food trucks – the twitter page will let you know where you can find them.

Chickie Wah Wah – Definately worth checking out. Like many places in New Orleans – don’t let the humble outside fool you.



Seemingly the antithises of the Saturn Bar (described in this post), Irvin Mayfield’s Jazz Playhouse in the Royal Sonesta on Bourbon Street is an expensive, nice, modern bar with a small raised stage in one corner. They offer a food menu, a decent wine list, several beers on tap behind a slick bar with an endlessly rotating color scheme (and, as scene on Treme a couple of times).

The night we were there, we were excited to see Shamarr Allen with his band the Underdawgs. Shamarr was my “jazz fest moment” this year (2011) when we caught him at the Gentilly stage – a really incredible performance. It would have been extremely difficult to live up to that performance in the setting of of the Jazz Playhouse – but Shamarr and the band did a nice job keeping things moving, and even soliciting some audience participation.

In any event, it is nice to have live non-karaoke music on Bourbon. For a while choice has been limited to the Sing-Sing which has a good blues scene, or Fritzel’s European Jazz Pub, which is awesome. It’s nice to have another alternative – especially one that is showcasing such great and important New Orleans musicians.


When you get a sandwich at a deli, or some fried chicken at Fiorella’s in the French Quarter, when do you eat the pickle? Before? With your sandwich? After doesn’t seem right…I mean, a pickle is a weird dessert…

Speaking of Fiorella’s (click for yelp page on them) I have to vote them as the best fried chicken in New Orleans. I know you usually hear Willie Mae’s Scotch House (yelp link) has the best fried chicken in New Orleans. And I’ve heard a vote for Coop’s as well.

I can’t say I am a friend chicken expert, but I’ve had my share. Fiorella’s is the best. Slightly spicy, cooked to order, crispy and juicy. Oh my.



Saturn Bar – Alex McMurray with acoustic set by Happy Talk Band.

Excellent experience at this off the beaten track location. I’ve been going to the Saturn Bar since before Katrina – I used to watch movies on TV there with a couple of elderly gentleman drinking beer with ice cubes back when I didn’t have cable, or a TV. Now, Thursdays is host to Alex McMurray in a funky sideways room at the bar.

The Happy Talk band started almost on time at 9ish (a rarity in NOLA.) It was fantstic watching/listening to them work on new material, tweak older songs – in this intimate setting one could really get the interplay between the three guitarists and see how the band members work together.

Alex went on after a short break – playing an acoustic guitar hooked to an amp – standing on the cement floor level with us, chatting and joking around in between songs, and taking requests. It was a real pleasure to be so close to such an original and talented musician.

The Saturn Bar is a grimy, dirty seemingly scary (but not) slice of New Orleans authenticity, and they might be out of lemons. Worth a visit for the original neon alone.






Huron Tours and Travel Jazz Fest Tour Logo

Hey Y’all! So last year, Katie mentioned in this post that I was going to make 2010 the year I tried Ya Ka Mein Soup.

I did try it, but I am sorry to report it was a little on the salty side, and it wasn’t as hot (temperature wise) as it should have been.

I guess the saltiness shouldn’t surprise me – a quick perusal of internet recipes shows the base for this soup is:

25 cubes (1 jar) of  beef bouillon

WOW!  So, this would be a great dish to eat after a few hours of New Orleans summer tennis, or a 50 mile bike ride or something.  Some way to get your electrolytes back in sync.  Maybe after a particularly hot second weekend of Jazz Fest!

So, a small disappointment in the usual excellent food choices of the Jazz fest.  There was a coupon for $0.50 off the price in the Jazz Fest program, so if you are tempted to try Ya Ka Mein (or love salt), don’t forget to look for that.

-John

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